My second expedition in the Himalayan ranges. Must say eastern Himalayan range is very picturesque and lush green, unfolding a different kind of beauty at every step you walk. Summit of the expedition is Sandakphu (3636 m; 12,400 ft), highest peak in the state of West Bengal, India. Uncertainity of nature in the region makes every moment cherishable.
This time we were three ladies; Swati, Poonam and me to join a group of other 45 people for this expedition with YHAI group. We had a plan to reach Darjeeling a day before we were supposed to report the base camp and explore the city on our own. But due to miscommunications, we ended up joining the group starting a day before, that is on 28th and mystery of unknown took over the planned journey and till the last moment of the journey everything was unplanned and a surprise …. some too beautiful to be engraved deep in memory and a few as a shock in the last minute.
28th December 2013, we start from Pune at 2 a.m in the morning for Mumbai airport. Cab driver was witty and pro in his driving skills to drive at a speed of 120 Km/hr and above. Punchline of the day was his remark on the passing van full of chicken, “most of them are going to die of cold/wind and they will end up being lollypop”. Reaching Mumbai domestic airport much earlier than expected, had enough time to savor breakfast and besan laddus we carried; before we flew to bagdora. You fly and the awesomeness of clouds outlined with beaming sunrays overwhelms and before you get bored with that view; at the far ends of the view, highest peaks of world including Mount Everest emerge above the clouds. Site was simply marvelous and I was already feeling every penny invested for the trip is worth this beauty. Finally we land in Bagdora, savor lunch in the airport Canteen which is very cheap as per airport standards. Cab ride again from Bagdora to darjelling, and the scenic beauty spread across this land unveils its splendor as we drive past it. Endless tea gardens on the plain land, hazy darkness in the distance emerging as gaint mountains approaching us fast and beauty of valleys as the cab crosses the zig-zag paths through these endless mountains, travelling side by side to the track of Darjeeling Himalyan railways. Finally we hit Darjeeling city at around 6 p.m, right there at the reporting point base camp. Formalities, check-in and done for the day-1.
Day-2 starts with morning exercise at the heart of M.G road, followed by first glimpse of Kanchenjunga and Sandakhpu summit in the far end. We cheer for the group starting their trek, have breakfast and start for the acclaimatization trek. This turns out to be a site seeing trip around the city, with visists to Japanese monastery “Peace Pagoda”; Japanese temple, St. Paul’s School (school where Main Hoon Naa is shooted); walking through the lanes of the city, fanatically clicking here and there and then back to hotel for lunch. After lunch, three of us went out to venture on our own around the city through local market, M.G road, park and then Darjeeling tea festival enjoying the local snacks like momo, pani puri etc. on the way.
Image courtesy Abhilash Ravindranath
Day-3, we gear up with our back-packs to start our trek through Sandakhpu-Gurdum route. Jeep takes us to Dhotrey, where we had the delight of savoring hot momo before we meet our front and rear guide Pimba and Nima.
Image courtesy Abhilash Ravindranath
Image courtesy Abhilash Ravindranath
Cheering up for the journey ahead, we start marching with Pimba leading us, followed by Swati. Within half an hour, all the extra clothing goes off and we keep walking enjoying the greenaries all across this route. Scattered in the group, walking along new people, knowing them, their whereabouts and chattering over other things of interest, we all assemble at one point to enjoy our packed lunch and some fanatic clicks :). We start marching again, a bit steeper climb, enjoying the view of lush green mountains around us and snow clad ones in the distance standing tall over rest all. Last few miles of this day, photographer in both Poonam and me was suddenly on high and we walked together taking a long time to cover this short distance, clicking everything in the beautiful bliss. Finally we reach the camp site of the day at Inida-Nepal border, with our abode in Nepal. We fanatically click some awesome pictures flipping between India and Nepal and also with the “Land Rover”, mechanical roaring lion in the area. Finally we find Swati, who had injured herself showing us the cozy room in Nepal. We settle down for a while, get our soup and go out to explore the surrounding area. Finally fun loaded bonfire, dinner and then bed time 🙂
Day-4, Swati and me get up early to witness the spectacular panoramic view of sunrise. There had already been some people to the nearby sunrise/senset point, we clicked some awesome snaps, enjoyed the chill and came back to enjoy the hot Napali breakfast. Back-packed and we marched ahead to Kalipokhari. We were warned of not touching the bushes and shrubs on this route as many were poisionous. This day turned out to be easy as we had been mostly either descending or walking on the leveled path. Most of the time, I walked alone without sight of anyone from the group ahead or behind me. I pretty much enjoyed the me time and finally reached the Kalipokhari (black lake) near the camp site and sat alone there for quite sometime before quietness of the moment was disruptured by Poonam.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Ah! the ever changing clouds, one moment rising high to the limit of our vision and next moment sweeping down to the valley in front of us, spectacularly dramatized the beauty of the place.
Image courtesy Abhilash Ravindranath
As the sunset approached, they seemed to pacify their motion and settled at a level, just a liitle below where we stood; appearing soft as foam, stagnant in their position – much like bundle of cotton layered – waiting for us to jump and bounce on them.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
As it darkened, we moved to our alloted rooms, settled down for a while and then up for the next round of fun around the bonfire, followed by dinner of the year 2013.
Day-5, we woke up to a new year 2014, cheering up for the new begining and greeting each other. Another year, another day and same group of people to cherish the experience of journey with.
Image courtesy Bhargav
Biding adieu to the year 2013 and our hosts at Kalipokhari, we start marching ahead.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
We were warned, it being toughest part of our journey, steep climb all along the way from Kalipokhari to Sandakhpu. Some of us took most of the shortcuts we could figure out, some of which were steep slipary way, some steep rocky steps and other on the edge of the valley through India-Nepal border line.
Beauty of these short-cuts were so much that we reached last to the common meeting point midway of the route. From here on – to Sandakhpu, walked pretty much through regular route (without shortcut) with a halting gait taking a step forward, gasping harder for breathe and wiping the ever flowing nose.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Finally we made it there to the peak of route, to be welcomed by the wind ready to blow us all.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Settled down, put on all the clothes, enjoyed the hot soup and was ready to go around the place. We followed Pimba to local temple and then back to the camp.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
On the way back, there was a not so tall cliff, few of us climbed to. Well yes, we rock climbed it as there was no way we could hike it. Poonam and me had lagged behind while walking up from the temple and jumping to different directions to peep into the valleys. When we reached bottom of this not so tall cliff, it din’t appear so daunting but once you start climbing, there was no way to turn back and barely any scope to look up to check how much more to go. Keeping all my limbs fixed, moving one at a time, finally I reached there. Gasping hard for oxygen, letting the racing blood stream pacify, recollecting myself I rose to check the view and suddenly it felt I had not climbed just the highest summit at Sandakhpu but felt like having climbed to the valut of heaven. 360 degree sweeping view of mountains including Mt. Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu etc, clouds changing forms below us and wind racing past us welcomed our beings to fly with them.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Simply out of the world moment! Wanted to stay till sunset but skin piercing wind and bone shuddering chill din’t allow us to stay there for long and we came back to the cozy cabins of the camp and slipped into our blankets until dinner. Enjoyed hot dinner at around 8 and then back to bed. Rooms were cozy, blankets were warm but this turned out to be the most restless night of my trip. Lights went off and we had nothing to do than sleep or keep tossing in your bed until day break. All night I struggled hard to keep breathing, breathlessness barely allowed me any sleep.
Day-6, I jumped to the next room the moment Poonam called for me, suddenly problem of breathlessness disappeared as we started chatting. It was still dark when we went out to witness sunrise. But trust me, getting up so early and going out in that dark monstrous chill din’t appear like a problem at all but instead it was an escape from the struggle to breath. We were there in the out to see the sky line change from black to blue – to purple – to pink – to green and slowly horizon turned orange and red with a yellow ball rising above the blanket of clouds.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
It was marvellous to watch the sun cast its bright shadow over the mountains and everything starting to glaze under its glory.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
We returned to our rooms, hurriedly packed our bags, had breakfast and were ready for the next march to Gurdum. It was a pleasant decend, with lush greenary all around us. We were warmly welcomed to this place with very pleasant and fresh atmosphere. Oh! We had the previlage of ordering food of our choice and we spent most of our pleasant time in the cafeteria savoring everything of our delight available.
Image courtesy Poonam Kumari
After sunset, this time a fun loaded call for laddu count went across the circumference of people for them to choose truth/dare if they missed the laddu. Followed with dinner and then time to bed.
Day-7, get ready and start for the final destination Rimbik. This turns out to most pleasant route of all. A stream of water flowing along the route, uproaring the glory of mountains and nature, tapping its way through rocks clapped for our arrival at every corner, washed off everyone’s weariness stopping by its stream and took it all to a far land unseen. Suddenly I felt a boost of energy and walked as fast as I could without missing to notice its beauty; and at the end of the journey was feeling totally fresh to go for a round trip may be.
With all that finally finished this trek walking with Swati in the last part of it, who had been leading on all the days this time. But this was only end of our Sandakhpu-Gurdum trek, our journey continued further to Sikkim; which needs a separate accounting altogether.